Pieces of beauty: viva indie

A selection of indie beauty products that bring something to the table in the vast ocean that is the cosmetic industry.

In my 15 years+ of focus on green beauty products, I’ve become acutely mindful of everything I consume. I shared my attention on fabrics (in this post), and I follow similar principles in beauty. I no longer try to keep up with every latest launch, I am carving my definition of beauty and wellness, and strive to search for what aligns with it. This path has organically led to a smaller beauty cabinet. My bathroom is not exactly “shelfie material” as I currently have two cleansers, a toner, a hydrosol, a mask, a serum, and two oils/creams. However, by reducing the amount of products, I can easily discern and assess the real effects of each product.

If I share products here, it’s exclusively to highlight products/brands that have made a difference to me. I am not paid by any brands, nor requested to share about them. The majority were also bought by myself. Some product links are from my ShopMy page, but I am not a brand ambassador. If you came from Smells like a Green Spirit, then you know the standards I abide by. I reiterate them in « Coming Clean Part I ». Mentioned here are products from 2022 -2024, and all were used up before forming a well-rounded opinion. I choose to bring these to your attention because most indie brands barely get any press coverage, despite being of outstanding quality.

The following quote by Maya Angelou, “People will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel”, could be extrapolated to skincare: the greatness of a product is tied to how it makes you feel, and if I remember positively the sensation of a product, then it’s a winner in my book.

CUT BY FRED Volume Ayurvedic shampoo

A shampoo truly tailored for thin/flat hair + scalps that do oil treatments. It’s a multitasking product that keeps my hair care routine simple and efficient. It looks like a body scrub, in the sense that it’s a paste with granulous bits, but it emulsifies with water and turns into a more milky texture that lathers super well. It was my go-to after oil treatments because it cleanses the scalp by providing a mild exfoliation, neatly removing product built-up and residue, thus preventing the scalp from getting clogged or quickly greasy.

The volume and bounce are instantly noticeable, so no lies were told in the name and product description. I was legitimately wowed by the volume it would deliver every single time. The scalp felt clean, fresh yet balanced. The formula is excellent, a base of ghassoul (a volcanic clay used for centuries to strengthen hair and provide volume), sugar grains (for exfoliation and micro-circulation boost), and coffee grounds (caffeine strengthens hair follicles). The Ayurvedic reference lies in the use of two Indian hair powders, Kachur Sugandhi, (which adds shine and strength to fine hair) and Kapoor Kachli (used for hair growth stimulation and for its antioxidant properties).

It’s not a shampoo meant for daily use, 2x/week if you do oil treatments or if you use styling products/anything that adds build-up. This Cut By Fred shampoo + the By Achilles hair oil (see below) is a fantastic combo for growing healthier hair.

Ps. This product contains 3 essential oils (in the perfume), consult with your health provider if it's compatible to use during pregnancy.

LEAHLANI Pamplemousse aromatic essence & Bless body balm

Leah, the founder has been treating us with Hawaiian goodness for years. For me, Leahlani is the most affordable way to get a taste of this beautiful place on Earth that is Hawaii and discover some of its magical flowers and herbs. Leah is a scent master, the smell of Pamplemousse feels like the first day of sunshine after a long string of foggy and gray days. It’s uplifting and fruity; a serotonin kick in a bottle. I want to try the body oil version of this, it’s bound to be as delightful. 

Meanwhile, Bless balm is the body balm version of the perfume and I actually may prefer the balm because it’s a double win: you smell great + your skin is nourished and dewy, thanks to its formula combining skin-replenishing ceramides, moisturizing macadamia butter, anti-inflammatory blue tansy, spirulina and nourishing avocado oil. The texture is a balm-to-oil that spreads and absorbs swiftly to leave glossy and hydrated skin. My only “reservation” is the tube packaging, it’s a bit of a struggle to extract the amount of product necessary, I understand that it may be for environmental reasons (it’s also more travel-friendly) but a jar could potentially elevate the experience. 

Bless is a more grounding and soothing scent: if you need tenderness, go for Bless, if you need a boost, go for Pamplemousse. 

AVESEENA Green Caviar facial oil elixir

Not just another face oil, hence the word “elixir”. Dr. Ebru, the mastermind behind it, is highly versed and knowledgeable on a condition she’s been working on for years, which is “inflammaging”. The first time I ever heard of this term was from her and signs of “inflammaging” appear as dryness, dullness, and sensitivity.  This oil successfully treats all those signs.

Described as an 8-in-1 oil, it’s another gem for all of us who don’t have the time, energy, or desire to have a big skincare regimen. The Swiss army knife of facial oils. It addresses lipids-deficient skin and helps repair signs of premature aging, fatigue, and inflammatory dryness. This is the “oil version” of Ayuna’s Need-le in the sense that it’s an oil that ups the skin’s natural defense system. Skin feels more resilient with regular and consistent use. The texture is silky soft, applies seamlessly, and gives a dewy finish.

The formula is representative of the “science meets nature” approach with a combination of botanical extracts and peptide complexes (MATRIXYL™ 3000). For those wanting to avoid retinol, it’s a good alternative precisely because of Matrixyl 3000 and bakuchiol. Both are specifically targeting uneven texture and fine lines. Squalane (one of my favorite oils) is the base which provides moisture barrier support. The presence of green caviar algae oil was a first for me, which is an ingredient boosting plumpness and smoothness. In the formula, you’ll also find absolutes of gardenia and tiare, as well as blue tansy (another favorite) for soothing inflammation.

This is one of the first products I used from this list, and yet reporting back on it I remember vividly the instant nourishing effect it provided. Over time, I also noticed a more resilient and even skin. I used it up until the last drop. It coats the skin without clogging it. Skin feels instantly quenched and super silky. Doubles as an excellent primer before makeup because there are no dry spots left. I am also fond of the scent which is a beautiful mix of fresh and floral. Fully natural, courtesy of the absolute essences of roses, gardenias, and blue tansy. 

LE PAAR elemenental day silk and silk rose honey mask

Le Paar has been an amazing discovery for me. The few products I tried were an absolute hit. First, the SPF serum is an untinted fluid that spreads evenly and is easily absorbed by the skin. No white cast. It applies smoothly and is very comfortable, despite its lotion-like texture. My skin loved it. It’s also nourishing without clogging.

After researching white labels, and realizing how many formulas are almost identical (my first Substack post), my attention to original formulas has gotten even stricter, and the one by Le Paar is unique and packed with an impressive list of botanical extracts: Calendula, amla, carrot root, Japanese knotweed root extract, milk thistle, rhatany root, arnica, vanilla, saffron stigma, myrrh, frankincense, ylang ylang, non-nano 24 karat gold to name a few lol. Each ingredient has been specifically picked to create a synergy of benefits to turn the day silk into a hydrating, soothing, protective, and replenishing product all at once. Special mention to the use of rhatany root which is a completely new ingredient to me. It has antioxidants, lipid-restoring and UV-absorbing benefits. I was also curious about the use of non-nano 24 Karat gold. Gold is meant to have circulation and collagen-boosting benefits. Le Paar also adds that it can « receive sun energy and ground intentions. »

The silk rose honey mask is equally mesmerizing in its formula: ‘malfroy gold’ honey, pink kaolin, damask rose, kuzu root, red clover extract, light root extract, black currant extract, hawthorn fruit, and more. The new-to-me ingredients were: Kuzu root which is rich in botanical estrogens to help reduce puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines + Light root extract which stimulates the endocrine and lymphatic system, and has cell-renewing, hormone balancing benefits. I love a good honey-based mask because they have a myriad of benefits, that one is spectacular because it’s not overly gooey (which is sometimes the issue with honey-based masks as their application can be a bit tricky), it almost has a balm consistency which makes it super easy to apply and spread all over face and neck. My skin felt so revived and boosted after use, could not get enough of it, my wish would have been a bigger size of the jar.

VERED ORGANIC BOTANICALS flower and herb garden mist

If like me, you love Josh Rosebrook’s hydrating mist, well chances are that you will love Vered Organic Botanicals' newest launch just as much. It’s another fabulous option for the hydrating mist. It feels like an enchanting bouquet, it’s floral and grounding. I used it up at light speed lol because I became (healthily) addicted to its botanical scent. It’s not overly floral, nor herby, very balanced and overall, instantly mood-boosting, comforting and refreshing. The notes of rose otto, jasmine, the rose, ylang ylang and citrus are beautifully entangled. In addition to the aromatherapeutic benefits, it’s a sophisticated skin formula: it softly restores balance and brings a boost of hydration and nourishment thanks to calendula and aloe vera. It also has antioxidant-rich fennel, silica-rich marhsmallow root extract, and anti-inflammatory comfrey.

Vered is a goldmine of information regarding essential oils and natural perfumes, and her research on the limbic system and its impact on overall health has led her to work with scents uniquely. The aroma of Flower and Herb Garden Mist is designed to soothe your senses and benefit your well-being. Another product I am very fond of from VOB is their best-selling Vitality face treatment oil which is a skin cocktail. It’s revitalizing and takes away the signs of dullness and fatigue. Plus it smells divine. 

LA BELLE LUNE nightbloom cleansing balm

I reviewed the face oil years ago, and back then I was already enchanted by the brand. It comes with its universe, and you feel like a witch/fairy with her concoctions. La Belle Lune embodies slow and green beauty to me. Each product is meticulously crafted, and every detail is thoroughly thought of. Due to the nature of the botanicals used and the time they take to infuse, Nightbloom is made to order and is available in (moon ;) phases. 

Once I started cleansing with Nightbloom, I did not touch anything else until it was used up to the very last scoop. I scraped the bottom of the jar and I was excavating the edges to make sure there was no residue left. It’s a dream in a jar. It makes cleansing simple and extra at the same time: simple because it applies and washes off easily, and extra because it’s a true sensorial experience. 

The scent is ethereal, whimsical with soft notes of violet lead, pink lotus, and sweet middle notes of Honeysuckle, Rose Otto, and Jasmine Sambac. The star ingredient is cold-pressed poppy seed oil (a new-to-me ingredient) which is high in vitamin E and fatty acids to keep the skin soft and moisturized. Paired with mango seed butter, and you have the smoothest texture in a balm.

My skin felt so soft, so nourished, so balanced. It’s a true self-care act because every evening. I’d feel the tension accumulated throughout the day melt away along the makeup residues on my skin. It set the tone for my skincare routine. When the first step feels so appeasing, appealing and satisfactory, the rest goes on smoothly.

IN FIORE Veloutée complexe lip and eye balm

A mighty tube. Don’t be fooled by its small size, it lasted me for over a year of consistent use because a little goes a long way. A little amount is potent and incredibly nourishing. Coats the skin with intense nourishment without clogging it and has this delightful buttery smooth texture. It’s a product that although targeted for the eye and lip area, works on any dry spot on the face.

It creates a skin barrier protection and replenishes lipids all while giving the skin a dewy finish. An element worth sharing is the use of DPHP Collagen Amino Acids, an oil-soluble version of hydroxyproline, the primary amino acid in collagen. In Fiore shares that by making it oil-soluble, it improves penetration into the skin and works by signaling the uppermost layers of the skin to repair its supportive elements, which softens lines and wrinkles. I did feel like I was using a special product, the glow it provided was outstanding and I noticed a difference in my eye and lip area. It provides a long-lasting nourishment regardless the season. It’s not a regular balm it’s a collagen-boosting, antioxidant-packed treatment designed to heal, hydrate, and rejuvenate.

It was a splurge but it was a reminder that In Fiore is staying true to their core values and committed to providing efficacy. More “mainstream” brands are within the same price range and yet do not measure up to In Fiore.

GRACIOUS MINDS Flowers Of Resilience Peptide Firming Serum

An Australian brand that was new to me and what a marvelous discovery. This firming serum was a hit. A product to keep on your radar, especially if you deal with sensitive skin and/or if you’re looking for essential oil-free cosmetics. 

The formula is gorgeous, lightweight, soothing, soft, and nourishing. I discovered new ingredients, namely Australian native wattleflower and waratah flower, both rich in gallic acid, which have protective qualities and contribute to counteracting oxidative stress effects. The serum also contains natural marine collagen from seaweeds and rice and pea protein peptides to soften fine lines and even skin tone. Hibiscus and bilberry extracts, the former being dubbed as the “botox” plant. The base is made with aloe vera juice, glycerin, and rose hydrosol, which give it its silky texture and super soothing benefits. 

I have no remarks to make. It’s excellent and fairly affordable compared to what’re seeing now. This, combined with the Free + True essence desert milk and you get the closest thing to the « glass skin » or « glazed skin ». Skin is noticeably and instantly hydrated, soft, and dewy. I loved this combination to pieces.

I tried searching for it on the brand page, but it looks like it’s a seasonal product so it’s no longer available. I hope it makes its comeback because it was a true delight to use.

NOELIE - « black coffee » healing herbs hair color

I’ve been using hair herbs for years, natural henna for bounce-strengthened volume, and usually, I go for Khadi powders. When I came across Noelie, I was so intrigued by the packed list of botanical extracts. How could this not improve lackluster or fragile hair?

What difference is there between traditional, ayurvedic hair powders and this one? It lies in Noelie’s patented a patented molecular double-membrane formulation containing phosphatidylcholine, an essential component of the lipid membrane of animal and plant cells. The membrane lipid formula technology is a high-performance transport technology that uses specialized membrane structures to transport high-performance active ingredients into deeper layers of the skin and hair and create a lasting depot effect. The ingredient list is impressive because it is packed with herbs and you truly feel like you’re dying your hair and treating them at the same time. There are over 28 botanical extracts listed, it’s a true powerful plant dye.

In terms of coverage, I can’t speak for those who have lots of grays or white streaks, Black coffee is close to my natural color so it evened out everything and, in terms of texture, I was impressed. It sheathes the hair and reinforces weak strands of hair. My scalp loved this blend and my hair had a bonus bounce and volume, it visibly appeared healthier. 

MILLS FARM Bee venom Manuka honey toothpaste

A purchase made in early 2024 when I ran out of toothpaste and bought one at the closest organic store. I was instantly intrigued by the use of manuka honey and bee venom and decided to give it a try. Mills Farm is a family-owned business and among the pioneers in the production of organic bee venom worldwide. I came across a video mentioning that Manuka Honey was often contaminated with pesticides because New Zealand allows the use of them but after checking the website of the company, they specify that their Manuka trees are far away from pesticides, herbicides, and other human contact. Their products are Hua Parakore (Pure Products) validated and verified by Te Waka Kai Ora, which is the world’s first Indigenous verification system. The latter supports local initiatives, agriculture, and horticulture that are free from all pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, and GMOs.

Honey in a toothpaste might sound odd at first, because it’s naturally high in sugar, yet does not promote enamel demineralization. Actually, the pH recovers much faster after honey than sugar exposures and does not drop below the critical decalcification pH of 5.5 for enamel caries.¹ In fact, honey can help reduce plaque buildup by fighting the bacteria that produce acid in the mouth. Manuka honey is a strong anti-inflammatory agent that significantly reduces toothache-related pain, tenderness, and swelling. The various human clinical studies on bee products and their potential in dental care showcase that they can play a role in prevention of oral diseases, which are attributed to a myriad of biologically active compounds including flavonoids (pinocembrin, catechin, caffeic acid, phenethyl ester (CAPE) and galangin), phenolic acids (hydroxybenzoic acid, hydroxycinnamic acid, p-coumaric, ellagic, caffeic and ferulic acids) and terpenoids.² Those compounds can fight against various pathogenic bacteria such as s. mutans and Porphyromonas gingivalis, and periodontitis, dental caries, mucositis and dentin hypersensitivity.

Regarding the “carrageenan” in the INCI, the ingredient itself raises some questions as it may have side effects (related to inflammations), I tend to avoid it in food, but occasionally, I can give it a pass in certain products. The US seem more concerned over it than Europe. In oral care, various tests report that there are very few risks (and even with daily/3x/day brushing) as the amount « ingested/absorbed » is way below the amount that can potentially trigger adverse reactions.³ As per usual, I highly recommend everyone to do their own research and make their own opinion. I had a positive experience with it, mouth felt clean, no stickiness, felt very gentle for gums, and did not disrupt the oral microbiome. Also, my teeth looked slighly whiter which is due to Manuka’s natural enzymes which can remove stains. In combination with oil pulling, it’s a good duo for a simple yet effective dental routine.

FREE + TRUE essence milk + Tansy bi-phase essence

In my opinion, it’s an underrated brand. I was familiar with the brand and loved their Moonlight milk cleansing balm, and now this product solidifies my high opinion on them. This is a juice for the skin: it quenches dehydrated skin superbly, and my skin was fresh and dewy after applying this essence. I’d buy this in a bigger size. It’s a hydrating toner that instantly soothes the skin, and with consistent use, restores hydration, softens the complexion, and strengthens the barrier function.

They added their patented Desert Milk™, a blend combining baobab tree fruit extract, Kalahari melon seed oil (an ingredient I’ve loved since being introduced to it by Lina Hanson products), jojoba oil, and aloe vera for hydrating. One of my favorite ingredients, blue tansy, is also included which not only imparts its striking blue hue, but is a calming powerhouse. Add to that the “natural fruit complex”, another blend made with extracts of watermelon, apple, and lentil (!) to boost hydration and retain it for a longer time. Once you shake this bi-phase solution, you get an essence that delivers instant hydrating and conditioning benefits. It leaves no sticky feel, acts as a superb primer, calms inflamed skin, and gives a dewy complexion. Suitable for sensitive skin since it gently reinforces healthy barrier function. I can’t wait to order it again, and I see the difference now that I have stopped using it. 

BY ACHILLES scalp and hair elixir

I have been quietly using hair oils, many promised lustrous manes and thicker hair, even regrowth. Very few performed nor lived up to their claims. I can safely say that this hair oil by Danish brand By Achilles is number 1 in my book. Texture, formula, scent, effect, it ticks all the boxes. After consistent use (1-2x/week), I noticed little regrowth all over my thinning areas, and it’s done more for my hair health than most hair oils and even hair serums. It’s a repurchase for me.

The ingredient list is packed with not just ingredients part of ancestral hair rituals, but also proven to stimulate hair growth. There are many rosemary hair oils in the market yet it all comes down to the quality of each ingredient. You’ll see that By Achille’s formula feels superior. Just to list a few ingredients: black cumin seed, green coffee seed, amla, pumpkin seed, green tea, fenugreek, rosemary, and peppermint. The extraction method highlighted is supercritical CO₂, which maintains proper ingredient integrity, and potency, and is proven to preserve heat-sensitive plant material. As aforementioned, not all “rosemary hair oils” are created equal. 

If you have been discouraged by hair oils, I’d recommend to give this one a try. It might reconcile you with this practice.

AYUNA Need-le brightening micro-channeling nectar

Need-le first appeared as “Terra Clara” in 2023 in a stunning ceramic jar, but now it comes in a black bottle. Described as a brightening micro channeling nectar, it’s a product that mimics micro needling minus the needles. Micro-needling is a treatment I never tried (the closest thing I’ve done is acupuncture, yet never in a cosmetic way). Ayuna shares the following on Need-le: “the advanced design of its nectar-like texture comprised of a dense geloid lattice in which micro-droplets of silky oil coexist in harmonious contradiction with microneedle-like particles of natural silicon”. The aforementioned all-natural silicon-based microneedle spicules are extracted from the freshwater sponge, and drive the formula’s channeling activity, while also having exfoliating properties.

It’s a brightening face serum, that addresses hyperpigmentation and skin irregularities, with ingredients tailored to even out the complexion and stimulate, nourish, and energize the skin. Need-le is not a « fast-beauty » product, the magic of it unveils with consistent use. The result: skin that feels more resilient, less prone to irritations, and overall glowier and bouncier. I have never tried anything like this before. There’s a tingling sensation upon application but no irritation or redness (although I always recommend test-patching first as every skin is different). It’s a product that can provide support to anyone lacking the time to cocoon their skin, or who tends to put themselves last, because Need-le feels like a treatment in a bottle, in the sense that it’s versatile and tackles multiple issues at once. My skin has become more resilient with regular use of it. Zero breakouts despite chaotic sleep schedules and imbalances, with a very simplistic routine. I also noticed a brighter complexion, a softer texture, and visible evenness. The texture of this serum is also unusual: slightly gooey/elastic, and yet upon application, zero stickiness nor uncomfortable feeling; it blends with the skin, or more aptly, it “armors the skin”. Ayuna’s products also have their distinctive scent, it’s a soft, yet very fresh aroma, clean and comforting.

Ayuna works on raising the bar. It’s a league on its own because they are not following trends, but coming up with novel concepts and unique formulas. A brand that is unsettling in the most positive way. While there are multiple copy-paste brands in the market, contributing to this feeling of saturation, Ayuna paves a way that is off the beaten track. It’s not meant to be comfortable, it’s meant to open up to a broader vision of beauty, with every single detail designed to provide a special experience. Unusual texture, unusual ingredients, and formulas leave you with barely any ground for comparison, it’s often in those moments of unsettlement that growth and enlightenment can slither in. I learn to be more patient, more mindful, and look at each detail and sensation. Ayuna makes La Mer and Augustinus Bader look plain and common.

Are there any brands/products that are new to you here?

I am progressively putting all the remarkable products on Shop My and Benable, that way anyone can browse all the sections. Feel free to message me if you have any questions.

Thank you wholeheartedly for your support, and as always I enjoy your feedback and commentaries, so you’re always welcome to share your thoughts.

1. (https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-29188-x

2. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/372413063_Exploring_the_Potential_of_Bee-Derived_Antioxidants_for_Maintaining_Oral_Hygiene_and_Dental_Health_A_Comprehensive_Review

3. https://incibeauty.com/blog/231-les-carraghenanes-sont-ils-dangereux-en-cosmetique